The 1996 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François is a brilliant example of the vintage and likely ranks as the finest rendition of this cuvée produced in the 1990s. Mingling notes of candied peel, citrus oil and dried white flowers with nuances of smoke, iodine and freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied and ample but incisive, with a tensile and concentrated core, racy acids and a long, mineral finish.