2006 Champagne Salon Brut 沙龍香檳
96
The 2006 Salon Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut has a shining silver-golden color, the bubbles are tiny and enormously fine—they probably wouldn't stop rising from the bottom of the glass if you left the wine in it instead of drinking it. On the nose, there is a fascinating, pure and fresh bouquet with acacia, chalk, incense and concentrated lemon flavors. The 2006 is mouthfilling, round and elegant on the palate; it is dense and tight but also fresh and cleansing, provided with great finesse, mineral complexity, length and structure. The finish is clear and aromatic, round and well balanced, slightly creamy, very intense, greatly finessed and truly elegant, with stimulating salinity in the aftertaste.
Being restrained and generous at the same time, the 2006 Salon is a great promise rather than the greatest drinking pleasure today. Although I tasted the Salon several times over 36 hours, there is a chalky layer on everything, a taste of a wet sponge, soaked with a lot of chalk for the moment but also ultra-dark chocolate flavors (with at least 80% cacao) and candied lemon and orange zests. The truth or the soul of the 2006 Salon, I guess, is rather indicated in the almost emptied glass, from which ripe, yellow-fleshed fruit aromas (plums!), brioche, marzipan and floral flavors come out, reflecting a perfect ripeness of fruit as well as the great terroir of Le Mesnil. So, please, don't drink the 2006 straight after opening the bottle. Take a good Champagne glass and give the wine a while to breathe and open up. The aging capacity of the 2006 should be tremendous here.
