2004 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 香波木西尼1級田'愛侶園' - 喬治武戈公爵
2004 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Amoureuses"
Tasted: Jan 01, 2006
The always thoughtful enologist François Millet called 2004 a "series of temperature fluctuations, flipping between cold and hot periods. August was difficult and very cool whereas September was magnificent. The weather in August was sufficiently cool that it helps to preserve the acidity and freshness though the hail storm on August 23rd gave us pause. Fortunately, the north wind blew thereafter and it dried out the damaged berries and made it somewhat easier to get rid of them at the harvest. We had no oidium but there was a lot of sorting to eliminate the dried berries. The reduction in yields was significant in Musigny and Les Amoureuses and we lost between 20 and 25% of the crop overnight. Sugars were good at around 13% with correct phenolic maturity but not exceptional. We were careful not to over extract because the essential quality of the vintage is its elegance and refinement with real freshness and perhaps the best underlying sense of minerality that we've seen in several vintages. I particularly like the refined tannins the vintage gave us. In fact, to me, 2004 does not really resemble any vintage in the last 20 years. Some people suggest 2001 as a parallel but here at de Vogüé, the acidity was more prominent whereas the 2004s are elegant wines through and through because the elegance comes from within." As the notes and scores suggest, this is an exceptionally impressive group of 2004s but the wine that really stands out relative to its usual position in the range is the Bonnes Mares. All I could say was 'wow' when it was presented.
A beautifully expressive and moderately high-pitched and very spicy nose of red and black pinot fruit with violet and floral notes introduces textured, sweet and pure medium full flavors that also display an almost pungent minerality and striking precision. This has real rigor to it with laser-like focus and the finish is almost crystalline in its purity. Impressive and quite different from the seductive character this wine usually presents.