1996 Domaine Georges Roumier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras

Exhibiting a medium-to-dark ruby color as well as candied red fruit and violet aromatics, this wine is a firm, masculine, medium-to-full-bodied, velvety-textured, tangy, and complex wine. It has outstanding density, concentration, and flavors of earth, sauteed mushrooms, cassis, and blackberries that linger in its well-focused finish. Projected maturity: 2002-2007. Roumier informed me he was planning to bottle his 1996s earlier than usual to "trap the fruit." He is of the opinion that they will not be exuberant, charming, and seductive following bottling. Virtually every vigneron agreed that the 1996s have been a delight to drink from the moment the grapes were pressed. Yet Roumier thinks they will need years to be expressive. Those 1996s that I have tasted stateside have maintained their forward, fruity character, but time will tell. Importer: Chateaux and Estates Wine Co., New York, NY; Tel; (212) 572-7725.