The Single Malts of Scotland Mortlach 22 Year Old Sherry Cask Single Malt Whisky 54.2%

One of a pair of releases showing a different side to the Single Malts of Scotland range – it's a small-batch vatting rather than a single cask. It's four casks of whisky, three ex-bourbon hogsheads and a sherry butt from a couple of different vintages. The sherry butt's huge dried-fruit character has been tempered by the bourbon, but it's still a big and rich sherried dram, with softer orchard fruit and gentle American-oak spice.

NOSE
Brown sugar, cherries and new leather. Candied lemon and orange segments follow, with a little bit of minty freshness. Dark fruitcake and bittersweet dark chocolate peek in around the edges. Lighter notes float on top: rose petals and freshly cut stems, with a touch of candy necklace sweetness.

PALATE
Lots of dried fruit and grown-up, not-to-sweet fruitcake to start. Sticky raisins and malt loaf add more weight and sweetness. Spiced, stewed apples with anise, cinnamon and nutmeg develop, with buttered spiced bread, black liquorice and treacle toffee.

FINISH
The treacle toffee fades to leave freshly-cut apples dusted with cinnamon.

COMMENT
A big and sherried Mortlach with balanced fresh fruit and herbal notes that stops it becoming overpowering. Excellent cask selection.