More tensile than the Ruchottes, with a reserved nose of white flowers, mint and citrus zest, the 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs-Canet is taut, vibrant and mineral, with impressive power and length. I have always tended to focus on the Ramonet's Chassagnes, but this, like the excellent Puligny Enseignères, is a persuasive argument for pursuing their Pulignys just as ardently as well as testimony to the quality of their range in 2014.