The Leroy 2007 Vosne-Romanee Aux Brulees reveals its tannic structure and a wealth of forest floor and fungal complexity while at the same time living up to its name with sweetly rich blackberry confiture and roasted meatiness. Expansive and overtly ripely fruited, yet firm, and more restrained in the finish than its aromas and initial palate impression led me to expect, here is a Vosne whose deep layers can almost certainly be mined only over a period of 10-15 years. Still, I allow for the possibility that this was in part simply having an inexpressive day or month.